Dandy Style: The Art of Rebellion

Fashion has always been a tool of rebellion, and few styles wield that power more sharply than the dandy’s impeccably tailored silhouette - an emblem of confidence, precision, and control. And in 2025, no one is dictating the terms of this sartorial discourse quite like Anthony Vaccarello. The creative director of Saint Laurent continues to sharpen modern suiting, presenting a vision of impeccable tailoring imbued with quiet authority. “It’s not about when I would do a tuxedo for a woman which was worn naked underneath. The suits come with shirts, ties. You’re dressed. It’s about control, and power, in a way” - Vaccarello.

Fashion has always been a tool of rebellion, and few styles wield that power more sharply than the dandy’s impeccably tailored silhouette - an emblem of confidence, precision, and control. And no one understood this better than Yves Saint Laurent. In 1966, he shattered conventions by introducing the first tuxedo designed specifically for women. "Le Smoking," as it came to be known, was more than just an outfit - it was a statement. At a time when women were still expected to conform to rigid sartorial norms, Saint Laurent handed them a symbol of power, elegance, and defiance. This garment, which was originally reserved for men in smoking rooms to protect their clothing from cigar smoke, was now a weapon of liberation for women.

“For a woman, the tuxedo is an indispensable garment in which she will always feel in style,” - said Saint Laurent.

French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent helped women find confidence by redefining elegance with comfort. In 2025, no one is shaping this sartorial discourse quite like Saint Laurent once again. Under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the brand continues to refine modern suiting, presenting a vision of impeccable tailoring imbued with quiet authority. “It’s not about when I would do a tuxedo for a woman that was worn naked underneath. The suits come with shirts, ties. You’re dressed. It’s about control and power, in a way,” says Vaccarello.

Nicole Kidman in a Saint Laurent look for the Critics' Choice Awards.

But dandyism has never been the exclusive domain of men. Enter the quaintrelle, the female dandy, who wields fashion as an assertion of autonomy rather than mere ornamentation. Think of Marlene Dietrich in a razor-sharp tuxedo, her presence as magnetic as her lapels were crisp. Or Tamara de Lempicka, the enigmatic Polish painter whose penchant for structured tricorn hats and sculpted silhouettes made her as much an icon as her paintings. By borrowing from the masculine sartorial lexicon, the quaintrelle redefined femininity on her own terms. As a German magazine once observed of de Lempicka, “Her hands are gloved, she is helmeted, and inaccessible; a cold and disturbing beauty pierces a formidable being - this woman is free!” This notion of liberation through tailoring found further momentum in the 1920s. Coco Chanel, often regarded as the first female dandy, pioneered an androgynous elegance that blurred the boundaries of gendered fashion.

This era’s power suit remains as bold as ever, offering a fresh, nonchalant take on the suit and tie. Fast forward to today, and tailoring continues to evolve, with designers redefining classic suiting for the modern era. From the double-breasted jacket suit to the short-cut women’s suit, the 2025 season showcases a daring reimagination of structure and silhouette. Brands like Jonathan Anderson for Loewe and Stella McCartney are infusing tailoring with the spirit of dandyism, a balance of masculinity and feminine power. 

And if history has taught us anything, it’s that the dandy - regardless of gender - always has the last word. The legacy of the female dandy is a testament to the enduring power of self-expression - one that continues to shape the way we define confidence, rebellion, and style today.

Zendaya’s modern power in a suit from Roksanda’s Fall 2024 collection.