New Equation at Saint Laurent: Resort 2026

Saint Laurent has released its Resort 2026 collection and Anthony Vaccarello uses the season to refine the vocabulary he has been building over the last few years. The collection sits on the tension between two worlds: colour-blocked technical sportswear and satin-and-lace lingerie silhouettes. Instead of blending them, he places them side by side and lets the friction define the mood.

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The sports pieces come in tissue-weight nylon. Anoraks, cagoules and zip tops are cut with extended shoulders and narrow waists. They appear in saturated colour blocks: scarlet layered with vermilion, teal with ivory, ochre with deep green. These pieces are not styled as functional outerwear. They become the main element of the look, worn with pumps, opaque tights, oversized sunglasses or paired with tailored shorts and lacquered skirts. The effect is purposeful and fast, without any reference to logos or streetwear cues.

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Alongside these shapes, Vaccarello brings in lingerie dressing. Lace-trimmed shorts, asymmetric satin slips and pale silk pieces in pink, kingfisher blue and eau-de-nil are treated as part of the same wardrobe. Swimwear is styled with heels and jewellery, used as a base for full looks. Small details add to the tone: cherry earrings, block-coloured stilettos and glossy vinyl skirts appear throughout the collection, creating a rhythm that ties the looks together without relying on narrative.

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The established Saint Laurent codes are present but approached with restraint. Oversized bow blouses return in matte fabrics rather than archival silk. Long satin dresses come in navy and metallic tones, with slits and knotted details that reference the nineties more than the seventies. Evening shapes are photographed in daylight and sportswear appears against marble interiors. The shift in context is deliberate. Vaccarello positions the pieces as interchangeable parts of one system rather than separate categories for different hours of the day.

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This direction aligns naturally with figures like Mathilda Gvarliani, whose presence in international fashion reflects the same precise structure and visual clarity that runs through the collection. Her features, posture and overall aesthetic are in tune with the sharp silhouettes and graphic colour combinations that define Resort 2026. It is the type of collection where her image fits without adjustment, reinforcing the connection between Georgian talent and the contemporary global fashion landscape.

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Resort 2026 avoids theatrical gestures. Its strength is in construction, colour and the controlled use of contrast. Vaccarello continues to shape a Saint Laurent that relies on tension rather than decoration, function rather than theme. The result is a season that feels direct, measured and visually exact, with a point of view that holds its ground across every look.

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