Jacquemus Presents Le Palmier at the Picasso Museum

 On the marble staircases of a 17th-century palace, Simon Porte Jacquemus presented Le Palmier, his Spring 2026 collection, closing Paris Men’s Fashion Week at the Picasso Museum. The location carried clear historical weight for the brand and framed a collection built on continuity rather than contrast.

The collection was structured around precise silhouettes softened by relaxed proportions. Tailoring and architectural lines formed the base, while color, texture, and accessories introduced ease. The balance remained consistent throughout, avoiding excess or overt statement dressing.

Le Palmier referenced La Bomba, the 2017 collection that marked Jacquemus’s breakthrough and introduced Le Chiquito. In 2026, that chapter was revisited without repetition. The focus shifted to Le Valerie, presented in several iterations and positioned as the collection’s central accessory.

Oversized hats and large black polka dots recalled earlier Jacquemus collections, reworked with restraint. Pastel tones, textured elements, and exaggerated accessories appeared throughout. Menswear looks included polka-dot shorts paired with tailored jackets and bow ties, reinforcing the house’s approach to proportion and styling rather than narrative contrast.

The collection’s visual motif was inspired by the childlike yet extravagant hairstyle of Jacquemus’s daughter. This reference extended beyond the runway. Guests received a branded comb with their invitations, along with instructions for recreating the hairstyle, integrating the idea directly into the show’s framework.

Art references played a structural role. Jacquemus drew from the work of Alexander Calder, translating the sculptor’s kinetic principles into garments adorned with small, colorful dots attached by flexible threads. Movement was subtle but continuous, visible as models walked.

Among the cast was Mathilda Gvarliani, who appeared in a black look informed by equestrian aesthetics. The final look referenced a 1973 photograph by Helmut Newton depicting Paloma Picasso, closing the show through a direct visual citation.

The return to the Picasso Museum carried broader significance. In 2017, Jacquemus was the first designer to present a collection in the space, then positioned as an emerging name. Eight years later, he returned as the head of an independent global brand with established showrooms in New York and London.

Le Palmier confirmed the house’s current position. The collection focused on proportion, continuity, and recognisable codes, reinforcing Jacquemus’s approach to fashion as precise, controlled, and clearly defined.

Photos: Courtesy of Jacquemus