There’s a certain discipline in the way Anthony Vaccarello approaches Saint Laurent—a clarity of intention that resists spectacle, even as the clothes themselves command attention. With the Pre-Fall 2025 collection, he steps back into the spirit of 1966 not to recreate it, but to reframe it through the lens of contemporary elegance. It’s a conversation between eras, filtered through his precise, almost architectural eye.
The tailoring is taut, assured. Leather jackets—neither too polished nor too raw—anchor the collection with a sense of deliberate cool, while plaid shirting and croc-effect pencil skirts recall cultural touchpoints without slipping into pastiche. What Vaccarello understands better than most is how to balance restraint and intensity. Nothing here tries too hard, and that’s exactly the point.
Throughout, there’s a quiet dialogue between masculine and feminine energies. Checked blazers meet slivered, asymmetric skirts that suggest evening wear, but subverted—short in the front, trailing in the back. T-shirts and knits soften the formality, grounding even the most sculptural silhouettes in something utterly wearable.
This isn’t a collection driven by nostalgia. It’s about what remains vital in the codes of the house—ease, provocation, the sharp clarity of a silhouette—and how to translate that into a wardrobe that moves with the life women lead now. Even when the mood veers toward intimacy, in lingerie-inspired slips or sheer layers, it’s always balanced by something weightier: a long coat, a sturdy boot, a grounded stance.
Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent doesn’t ask to be admired from a distance. It invites you in—quietly confident, sharply drawn, and entirely lived in.
Set against the backdrop of the Palais des Papes in Avignon, Louis Vuitton's Cruise 2026 show blended historical references with contemporary silhouettes. With appearances from global icons and Georgian model Mathilda Gvarliani, the collection affirmed Nicolas Ghesquière’s enduring influence.
For three dazzling days, Baku transformed into the epicentre of regional style as the Azerbaijani capital hosted its first-ever Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. In an exclusive interview, Aysel Huseynova, one of the visionaries behind the event, shares insights into its transformative impact, Baku’s evolving role on the global stage, and ambitious plans to nurture the next generation of Azerbaijani design talent.
Baku hosted Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week for the first time, and The Diary spoke with curator Leila Imanova about her special exposition spotlighting Azerbaijani designers. She shares how fashion can reflect national identity and why this showcase matters.
